ARIANE CRAFTS blog . For not for profit handbags and rugs visit www.arianecrafts.com .For bookings or request of handmade items for local weekend Fairs, Charity and community events refer to Contact at www.arianecrafts.com
Wednesday, June 30, 2021
ARIANE CRAFTS :For better of for worst and in other types of canvas!
Tuesday, June 29, 2021
GEORGIA SUMMER WEDDING HANDBAG is ready!
Monday, June 28, 2021
Why I recommend RUSSIAN GRAPHIC DESIGN 1880 -1917 by Elena Chernevich and M.A. Aniks 1992 to better visualisation of Russian embroidery in the early 1900's.
Turkish Triangular Stitch
Above : Vertical Turkish Triangular Stitch , The Project Gutenberg
Last year in August I posted a review of the book ' Beginner's Guide to Ottoman Embroidery Joyce Ross, Search Press, Beginner's Guide to Ottoman Embroidery, 2005, ISBN : 978184481347, 72 Pages, Price : Discontinued by Search Press | Ariane Crafts
This book features the Turkish triangular stitch in page 38.
If you would like to see a sample of one of my works where I applied the stitch , check one of my Georgia Summer handbags ARIANE CRAFTS HANDBAGS : Georgia Summer handbags, Tote Bags with appliques, embroidery kits handbags | Ariane Crafts
Best wishes,
Ariane
RUSSIAN KERCHIEFS AND SHAWLS, AURORA ART PUBLICATIONS, Leningrad, 1985
This Book review is to be read in conjunction with Ariane Crafts 2020 July-August Russian and Scandinavian Embroidery Book Reviews:
1.
https://arianecrafts.blogspot.com/2020/07/book-review-frieda-halpern-full-colour.html
2. https://arianecrafts.blogspot.com/2020/08/peter-linenthal-russian-folk-motifs.html
3. https://arianecrafts.blogspot.com/2020/08/mary-gostelow-embroidery-of-all-russia.html
4.https://arianecrafts.blogspot.com/2020/08/thomas-parsons-scandinavian-designers.html
5.https://arianecrafts.blogspot.com/2020/08/edith-nielsen-scandinavian-embroidery.html
Though a thick hard cover book, this is mostly an illustrated pictorial guide to the modern evolution of Russian Kerchiefs and Shawls from the 18th to the 20th century compiled by Louisa Yemifova and Rina Belogorskaya. All pictures are of items currently in museums listed accordingly, so I mostly recommend this book for readers looking to analyse textile objects in details to pinpoint fashion evolution and migration of practices and materials used in the Russian Fashion Accessories industry.
If you are a textile historian
you will find of use to ask an Art Historian to help you analyse the influence
that European Classic Empire Art style had in the themes of the scarfs, like so
well Dr Olga Gordeyeva observed in page 5 of her Introduction to the book here
reviewed,
" Large transparent
white silk or muslin bridal veils were embroidered with gold thread, flat wire,
sequins and silk in shadow satin stitch. The patterns can be traced back to
motifs current throughout European Classicism and Empire styles at the turn of
the 19th century".
Dr Olga Gordeyeva gives a
succinct chronological evolution of Russian Kerchiefs and shawls based on
materials, designs, stitches used, fringe of society members who made and produced the
items, who wear them and what each symbolised for example a married woman vs a
single woman , in what region of Russia the items were produced and where the
materials were sourced and transformed , for example local mills and if the
items were produced in local group homes or individually, and most importantly
she also mentions items exported to Asia - a detail which might be relevant if
the reader is looking for how in long term, higher demand of cheaper silk
products shifted the industries during the 18th and 19th century from Europe to
Asia,
" The first Russian
silk mill appeared in Moscow in 1714, and by 1727 there were sixteen. In the
second half of the 18th century many towns from Astrakhan to Vologda had their
own silk mills but Moscow and Kolomna with neighbouring villages were the
centre of the silk industry. A major manufactory specializing in silk kerchiefs
woven in gold was owned by the Kolomna merchant Guri Levin; kerchiefs with his
trademark date back to the 1780s. His mills were famous for their kanavat
bridal veils, which concealing the wearers figure, created a very stately
effect. The kanavats had a wide zig zag border, a pattern seen on oriental
textiles, interwoven with gold-thread garlands and rosettes. The whole ground
was filled with rows of continuous ovals placed around large rosettes. These
veils sold well in Russia and were also exported to Asia. (…) The Levin’s mills
disappeared in the mid-19th century; they no longer took part in
industrial exhibitions in the late 1840s and 1850s.”
in page 6
The
progression of the 19th and 20th century Shawls industry is
marked by the introduction of printed manufactured shawls and kerchiefs to
meet higher demand. The author establishes
a chronological and regional evolution of the methods of manufacturing
production according to printing
blocks available in industries with accelerated modernisation based on funding
or not modernised based on lack of funding, fashion demands on the customer
side, designs, monopolisations of paints by leading factories and how many manufacturing
plants bankrupted late 19th century unable to compete with ultra-modernised
manufacturers such as the Guchkkov Brothers who also had greater care in supplying
items designed according to the demand at the time such as Oriental designs.
The
author concludes the introduction by reminding us that kerchiefs and shawls are
still accessories with a niche market and that the then Soviet Union was
funding the industry at the time the book was published,
“At
present Soviet artists and designers, united around the USSR Art Fund, are
working at major enterprises and local industrial workshops, carrying on the
traditions of Russian textiles. “In page 18
Page
162 – 167 : List of Russian Manufactories
Hope this review proved useful and thank you for reading,
Best wishes,
Ariane Crafts
Sunday, June 27, 2021
Happy Birthday Paul Colin!
Why didn't the Equalities Minister said " The problem is not skin colour, the problem is us! " if she is a Nigerian woman serving as a Minister in Britain?
As I scroll down the demographics stats for E16 and feel miserable at how 1062 rapes/sexual offences were committed within one mile of Schooner Road, and many families are massively leaving the area, I give thanks to live in Bromley where only 42 incidents of the same nature were reported in the whole county .
Just vehicle thefts, over 426 within the same ratio of Schooner Road which is also plagued with anti-social behaviour, theft, violent robbery, etc.
These statistics make Bromley and Crystal Palace look like a paradise, so what really is the problem with Britain to have the Equalities Minister state that she was brought up in Nigeria and knows for a fact skin is not the problem in these rates of school drop outs, teenagers vanishing from home and high rates of black on black crime?
I know what the problem is because I observed it close hand and I can speak about it. I can speak about woman to woman and I can speak about it here typing to whoever wants to read what I observed.
The root of the problem of Black on Black crime and children dropping out of school and vanishing from their homes does not start with the skin colour , but rather with what statistics tell us about human trafficking and what we fail to hear and understand in the communities of colour , especially the Nigerian community.
I was particularly stricken when I met a woman called A* who dropped out of her pharmacy degree to be a full time mother and had no intention of going to university and would rather stay at home. Her mother was a Housing benefits council worker re-married to an Indian man, her best friend was a social worker whose own daughter was on child protection. Everyone around her had a graduate or middle income work , yet everyone around her said shocking things in terms of passport , identity fraud, bringing distant relatives as if they were their own children.
At the time, Child Benefit was still awarded laisse faire, without the cap of maximum two children per couple. One would have thought that this would be okay for her . But no, she told me she had a fall out with a Nigerian girl who came from Nigeria with her passport and was working with her passport as a pharmaceutical scientist( her passport : as someone who was brought up in here). The woman, a mother of two kids, was paying her 250 per week.
Because this Aisha had told her she wanted more money or her kids belonged to her( she should bring the kids to her) , this woman vanished off the radar with the kids. In all this, I was just perplexed and as soon as I left the conversation, I never spoke to her again
What shocked me most in this is that a few months before I had met another girl at university and her boyfriend was a police officer who told me his age was 52. I was shocked as I looked at him and he looked maximum 30. Also this girl was too young for him, and I told her that. They both were very light skinned, green amber eyes and looked brothers and sisters but they are in fact from a tribe in Nigeria where people look like this.
When I met them I was hanging out with other students who I thought were Africans from Nigeria, from a Latin American country Guyana and India only, but in reality were all Indian Pakistani who had migrated to Nigeria and Guyana. Yet there were cousins between them , the ones whose parents migrated to Nigeria and to Guyana .
They were very well off and all studying law. All knew someone who was illegal and most important who has brought children from other people and using the children to collect child tax credits to pay mortgages and big cars - while the children starve.
You might say, well Ariane everyone knows that, is something Chinese do it, Indians and Pakistani, all do it that is why their communities are also having problems and Asians constitute the second largest minority group in prison
When someone brings a child to this country and steals the child identity, the right to their family origins, the right to their biological parents, the right to dignity and safety, because the child tax credits is the money that will pay that mortgage , will pay the big house to their relatives, that child is the servant who will carry the coffee tray, who will iron their brothers and sisters clothes ( real blood children of the traffickers) and will be the child who will get beaten and mistreated because in Africa and Asia they believe that if their own children can mistreat other children behind closed doors, their own children ego and capacity to behave like a white person will improve.
Is not just the Indians bringing upper caste children or collecting life insurance of their fake children. That child will grow up to be locked up at home making babies or hanging around publicly to give their children an upper caste status. It is the statistics, let's talk about statistics! Let's humanise and give faces to this statistics!
Is not just the Nigerians chopping an Albino person to pieces and carrying his bones in the chest that the individual will have good luck .It is the statistics, let's talk about the statistics and give faces to the Adam children floating in the river without limbs and face! It is the statistics, let's talk about statistics! Let's humanise and give faces to this statistics!
For the superstitious Nigerian, opportunity is also a factor, so when a white racist teacher is doing racism or a co-worker is doing racism, the Nigerian will always side with the racist, especially if against a mixed race person, a Caribbean or an Afro American person ( "akala") because it will give him the opportunity to be useful and needed for the future and will make his life easier.
Equally , their biological children will have support classes in the many Nigerian tuition centres which are all over the country , especially in deprived areas, while the children they are using for their child tax credit will be overworked at home or forbidden to set their feet in the house until 10 pm when the family is ready to go to bed.
If the couple has taken their biological babies to Africa or a relative have come with a different baby and swapped them, then the biological child will be in a Nigerian boarding school paid by the child tax credit, while this child who was brought in, will be kicked out of the house once they reach 15 and the money stops coming in.
The child brought up in here cannot use their real name by the age of 15, the child brought up in here is straight into a situation where they cannot work legally , yet they were brought up legally. The child has to come up with money to marry someone who has a legal stay or to be adopted by someone who has the say and will charge him money for sponsoring his visa.
This is a cliché situation being done by people who are educated, who will not look like your average criminal, yet they will do horrible things like this doctor and nurse who were criminally charged after keeping a man as slave in Britain for 24 years.
This cliché situations are not being addressed with deadly consequences for areas like Schooner Road E16
Friday, June 25, 2021
Thursday, June 24, 2021
Wednesday, June 23, 2021
America Horror nearing the Border is partying on Pininterest. No comment!
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I completely disagree with this draft paper submitted by Muhammad Taimur. From my experience interacting with Pakistanis and Afghans emailin...
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No shortage of 70 per cent recycled plastic packaging in our commercial goods, but there is a shortage of recycling goods at home, a missi...
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This handbag design is now registered with the UK Design Registration Authority. It is designed and executed by me using different stitches...