Wednesday, June 30, 2021

ARIANE CRAFTS :For better of for worst and in other types of canvas!





Our Georgia Summer handbags can also be made in petit point, aged or bleached canvas and even in rug canvas like our Georgia Summer handbag prototype back a few months ago.

For better or for worst, out handbags can make you feel as if up the isle, while down at  your local Civil Register!







Ariane Crafts

Tuesday, June 29, 2021

GEORGIA SUMMER WEDDING HANDBAG is ready!




Dear Pinterest followers and Blog visitors,


I am glad to present you another  finished product , 100 per cent handmade, 100 per cent cotton wool, 100 per cent designed and assembled by me!

This wool on canvas handbag is perfect for the big day and to keep that bouquet handy at your local Civil Register!
 


The sides were joined together by hand, no use of machines whatsoever!




Yet  the sides came out perfectly fine!


The label "handmade" is handstitched and can be removed without leaving any marks.



The handles were wrapped in a rustic wedding floral fabric trim.


The assembly of the handles were made in a flat surface to make the handle look more solid. No glue was used, only yarn.



The colour of the floral trim applied to the handles matched the over stitch ornamenting the background ( white cross stitch).


The stitches are executed with perfect regular tension.


The back of the work is tidy.




Miss Mouse is also a pin holder hence why she is everywhere lately ;)




Feel free to save and share this pin and to follow me on Pinterest!

Best wishes,


Ariane Crafts






Monday, June 28, 2021

Why I recommend RUSSIAN GRAPHIC DESIGN 1880 -1917 by Elena Chernevich and M.A. Aniks 1992 to better visualisation of Russian embroidery in the early 1900's.

 

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Academically trained painters and designers have worked in several disciplines to expand their creativity and as part of industrial economies, however in Russia from the late 1880s until today, there have been a particular visible contribution of Art and Graphic design movements to the Embroidery revival movements and a deliberate involvement of Russian painters and graphic designers in the design of embroidery, which today we can see stunning examples of archaeological embroidery in Museums all over the world.

Dr Wendy Selman research article on the Solomenko Embroidery Workshops - Journal of Decorative and Propaganda Arts, volume 5, in summer 1987 is a very localised work covering the intersection of academic trained artists in the process of revival of traditional folk arts, in particularly embroidery and rug making,  while intentionally or unintentionally  reflecting the art movements of the time.

An illustrative example is the painting of the Elena Polenova design for embroidery , painted in watercolour in the early 1890's, and the work(paintings for embroidery and rugs ) of her fellow movement artist and co-worker at the Solomenko Embroidery workshops, Natalia Dovydova, academically trained at Moscow School of Painting, Sculpture and Architecture ( Selman 1987).

The fact that the revival kustar workshops , in particular Solomenko workshops lasted from 1881 to 1917 made me buy the book Russian Graphic Design 1880-1917 by Elena Chernevich and M A Aniks published in 1992.

I was rather disappointed when I bought the book because I could not see any direct mention to embroidery, however as soon as I scrolled down the chapter Art Nouveau, I could identify every corner , any brush , every nuance that I understood to have permeated the textile arts through the commission of design work by painters and designers of this era.

Here are my favourite pictures ,






Truly formidable illustrative designs of what really was Art Nouveau way of capturing reality and emanating beauty through art in a very linear way, giving everything a slim delineated look, even if  just a curvy petal or flowers in a vase.

These pictures above could well have been  applied to a rug, a wall hanging, a dress, a table cloth, because all are relatable and can decorate in a very pleasant manner items that surround us at home or via graphic art conveyed and accessible in the media and cultural institutions.

Equally, these pictures can be used today to recreate items of value to you and your community, just as much as can be used in understanding the influence Art Nouveau had in kustar workshops like the Solomenko workshops which lasted from 1880-1917, precisely the time length covered in this book.

The book is mostly a fascinating illustrative guide of the era through the visualisation of commercial and political posters and advertisements which give us the sense of transition from non-monetary art like the Art Nouveau to a pre-revolutionary anxiety for political change and intolerance for injustice and society limitations to bring happiness like 1917 Russian Revolution so well materialised in Russian History.

Thank you for reading my book review,

Until next time,

Ariane Crafts 











Turkish Triangular Stitch

 

Above : Vertical Turkish Triangular Stitch , The Project Gutenberg



Last year in August I posted a review of the book ' Beginner's Guide to Ottoman Embroidery  Joyce Ross, Search Press, Beginner's Guide to Ottoman Embroidery, 2005, ISBN : 978184481347, 72 Pages, Price : Discontinued by Search Press | Ariane Crafts

This book features the Turkish triangular stitch in page 38. 

If you would like to see a sample of one of my works where I applied the stitch , check one of my Georgia Summer handbags ARIANE CRAFTS HANDBAGS : Georgia Summer handbags, Tote Bags with appliques, embroidery kits handbags | Ariane Crafts


Best wishes,


Ariane


RUSSIAN KERCHIEFS AND SHAWLS, AURORA ART PUBLICATIONS, Leningrad, 1985

 




 This Book review is to be read in conjunction with Ariane Crafts 2020 July-August Russian and Scandinavian Embroidery Book Reviews:

1. https://arianecrafts.blogspot.com/2020/07/book-review-frieda-halpern-full-colour.html

2. https://arianecrafts.blogspot.com/2020/08/peter-linenthal-russian-folk-motifs.html

3. https://arianecrafts.blogspot.com/2020/08/mary-gostelow-embroidery-of-all-russia.html

4.https://arianecrafts.blogspot.com/2020/08/thomas-parsons-scandinavian-designers.html

5.https://arianecrafts.blogspot.com/2020/08/edith-nielsen-scandinavian-embroidery.html


Though a thick hard cover book, this is mostly an illustrated pictorial guide to the modern evolution of Russian Kerchiefs and Shawls from the 18th to the 20th century compiled by Louisa Yemifova and Rina Belogorskaya. All pictures are of items currently in museums listed accordingly, so I mostly recommend this book for readers looking to analyse textile objects in details to pinpoint fashion evolution and migration of practices and materials used in the Russian Fashion Accessories industry.

If you are a textile historian you will find of use to ask an Art Historian to help you analyse the influence that European Classic Empire Art style had in the themes of the scarfs, like so well Dr Olga Gordeyeva observed in page 5 of her Introduction to the book here reviewed,

" Large transparent white silk or muslin bridal veils were embroidered with gold thread, flat wire, sequins and silk in shadow satin stitch. The patterns can be traced back to motifs current throughout European Classicism and Empire styles at the turn of the 19th century".

Dr Olga Gordeyeva gives a succinct chronological evolution of Russian Kerchiefs and shawls based on materials, designs, stitches used, fringe of society members who made and produced the items, who wear them and what each symbolised for example a married woman vs a single woman , in what region of Russia the items were produced and where the materials were sourced and transformed , for example local mills and if the items were produced in local group homes or individually, and most importantly she also mentions items exported to Asia -  a detail which might be relevant if the reader is looking for how in long term, higher demand of cheaper silk products shifted the industries during the 18th and 19th century from Europe to Asia,

" The first Russian silk mill appeared in Moscow in 1714, and by 1727 there were sixteen. In the second half of the 18th century many towns from Astrakhan to Vologda had their own silk mills but Moscow and Kolomna with neighbouring villages were the centre of the silk industry. A major manufactory specializing in silk kerchiefs woven in gold was owned by the Kolomna merchant Guri Levin; kerchiefs with his trademark date back to the 1780s. His mills were famous for their kanavat bridal veils, which concealing the wearers figure, created a very stately effect. The kanavats had a wide zig zag border, a pattern seen on oriental textiles, interwoven with gold-thread garlands and rosettes. The whole ground was filled with rows of continuous ovals placed around large rosettes. These veils sold well in Russia and were also exported to Asia. (…) The Levin’s mills disappeared in the mid-19th century; they no longer took part in industrial exhibitions in the late 1840s and 1850s.”

in page 6

 

The progression of the 19th and 20th century Shawls industry is marked by the introduction of printed manufactured shawls and kerchiefs to meet higher demand.  The author establishes a chronological and regional evolution of the methods of manufacturing production according to printing blocks available in industries with accelerated modernisation based on funding or not modernised based on lack of funding, fashion demands on the customer side, designs, monopolisations of paints by leading factories and how many manufacturing plants bankrupted late 19th century unable to compete with ultra-modernised manufacturers such as the Guchkkov Brothers who also had greater care in supplying items designed according to the demand at the time such as Oriental designs.

The author concludes the introduction by reminding us that kerchiefs and shawls are still accessories with a niche market and that the then Soviet Union was funding the industry at the time the book was published,

“At present Soviet artists and designers, united around the USSR Art Fund, are working at major enterprises and local industrial workshops, carrying on the traditions of Russian textiles. “In page 18

 





Page 162 – 167 : List of Russian Manufactories



Hope this review proved useful and thank you for reading,


Best wishes,


Ariane Crafts

 


Sunday, June 27, 2021

Happy Birthday Paul Colin!

 







Happy Birthday Paul Colin ! May you celebrate your birthday with many, while still Resting in Peace!

My boys don't allow Josephine Baker poster painting at home so I have it hidden behind a home made painting of a Koala! 

Still, is worst while! Might just be a poster print but to me is more than this ,is affordable Art thanks to Amazon!

Who is your favourite painter and why? Paul Colin is not my favourite painter. I am absolutely obsessed with Van Gogh and Auguste Rodin! Painting is therapeutic and saves lives! Are you a painter or a maker?

Best wishes,

Ariane


Ariane

Why didn't the Equalities Minister said " The problem is not skin colour, the problem is us! " if she is a Nigerian woman serving as a Minister in Britain?

 


As I scroll down the demographics stats for E16 and feel miserable at how 1062 rapes/sexual offences were committed within one mile of Schooner Road, and many families are massively leaving the area, I give thanks to live in Bromley where only 42 incidents of the same nature  were reported in the whole county .

Just vehicle thefts, over 426 within the same ratio of Schooner Road which is also plagued with anti-social behaviour, theft, violent robbery, etc.

These statistics make Bromley and Crystal Palace look like a paradise, so what really is the problem with Britain to have the Equalities Minister state that she was brought up in Nigeria and knows for a fact skin is not the problem in these rates of school drop outs, teenagers vanishing from home and high rates of black on black crime?

I know what the problem is because I observed it close hand and I can speak about it. I can speak about woman to woman and I can speak about it here typing to whoever wants to read what I observed.

The root of the problem of Black on Black crime and children dropping out of school and vanishing from their homes does not start with the skin colour , but rather with what statistics tell us about human trafficking and what we fail to hear and understand in the communities of colour , especially the Nigerian community.

I was particularly stricken when I met a woman called A* who dropped out of her pharmacy degree to be a full time mother and had no intention of going to university and would rather stay at home. Her mother was a Housing benefits council worker re-married to an Indian man, her best friend was a social worker whose own daughter was on child protection. Everyone around her had a graduate or middle income work , yet everyone around her said shocking things in terms of passport , identity fraud,  bringing  distant relatives as if they were their own children.

At the time, Child Benefit was still awarded laisse faire, without the cap of maximum two children per couple. One would have thought that this would be okay for her . But no, she told me she had a fall out with a Nigerian girl who came from Nigeria with her passport and was working with her passport as a pharmaceutical scientist( her passport : as someone who was brought up in here). The woman, a mother of two kids, was paying her 250 per week.

Because this Aisha had told her  she wanted more money or her kids belonged to her( she should bring the kids to her) , this woman vanished off the radar with the kids.  In all this, I was just perplexed and as soon as I left the conversation, I never spoke to her again

What shocked me most in this is that a few months before I had met another girl at university and her boyfriend was a police officer who told me his age was 52. I was shocked as I looked at him and he looked maximum 30. Also this girl was too young for him, and I told her that. They both were very light skinned, green amber eyes and looked brothers and sisters but they are in fact from a tribe in Nigeria where people look like this.  

When I met them I was hanging out with other students who I thought were Africans from Nigeria, from  a  Latin American country Guyana and India only, but in reality were all Indian Pakistani who had migrated to Nigeria and Guyana. Yet there were cousins between them , the ones whose parents migrated to Nigeria and to Guyana .

They were very well off and all studying law. All knew someone who was illegal and most important who has brought children from other people and using the children to collect child tax credits to pay mortgages and big cars - while the children starve.

You might say, well Ariane everyone knows that, is something Chinese do it, Indians and Pakistani, all do it that is why their communities are also having problems and Asians constitute the second largest minority group in prison


But there is more to this, and the predation factor, hate factor and group abuse factor also counts. 

When someone brings a child to this country and steals the child identity, the right to their family origins, the right to their biological parents, the right to dignity and safety, because the child tax credits is the money that will pay that mortgage , will pay the big house to their relatives, that child is the servant who will carry the coffee tray, who will iron their brothers and sisters clothes ( real blood children of the traffickers) and will be the child who will get beaten and mistreated because in Africa and Asia they believe that if their own children can mistreat other children behind closed doors, their own  children ego and capacity to behave like a white person will improve.

Is not just the Indians bringing upper caste children or collecting life insurance of their fake children. That child will grow up to be locked up at home making babies or hanging around publicly to give their children an upper caste status. It is the statistics, let's talk about statistics! Let's humanise and give faces to this statistics!

Is not just the Nigerians chopping an Albino person to pieces and carrying his bones in the chest that the individual will have good luck .It is the statistics, let's talk about the statistics and give faces to the Adam children floating in the river without limbs and face! It is the statistics, let's talk about statistics! Let's humanise and give faces to this statistics!

Picture Above: This boys torso was found in London back in 2001 BBC Picture. He was poisoned and paralysed but was alive during ritual. Source: My London News


For the superstitious Nigerian, opportunity is also a factor, so when a white racist teacher is doing racism or a co-worker is doing racism, the Nigerian will always side with the racist, especially if against a mixed race person, a Caribbean or  an Afro American person ( "akala") because it will give him the opportunity to be useful and needed for the future and will make his life easier.

Equally , their biological children will have support classes in the many Nigerian tuition centres which are all over the country , especially in deprived areas, while the children they are using for their child tax credit will be overworked at home or forbidden to set their feet in the house until 10 pm when the family is ready to go to bed. 

If the couple has taken their biological babies to Africa or a relative have come with a different baby and swapped them, then the biological child will be in a Nigerian boarding school paid by the child tax credit, while this child who was brought in, will be kicked out of the house once they reach 15 and the money stops coming in.

The child brought up in here cannot use their real name by the age of 15, the child brought up in here is straight into a situation where they cannot work legally , yet they were brought up legally. The child has to come up with money to marry someone who has a legal stay or to be adopted by someone who has the say and will charge him money for sponsoring his visa.

This is a cliché situation being done by people who are educated, who will not look like your average criminal, yet they will do horrible things like this doctor and nurse who were criminally charged after keeping a man as slave in Britain for 24 years.

This cliché situations are not being addressed with deadly consequences for areas like Schooner Road E16 



An area that could well look paradise but which just last year had over 426 vehicle thefts within 1 mile of the centre of the street.

This cliché situation is also not being addressed by the Government because the matter is again left to Nigerians, the community who mostly predates in other minorities and who most Africans and Caribbean truly hate and have experienced in one way or the other double oppression based on race and economical class.

Yet the British Equalities Minister, a Nigerian woman, will simply say " Skin Colour does not matter!". Will she ever say the rest?

Ariane Brito


 

Wednesday, June 23, 2021

America Horror nearing the Border is partying on Pininterest. No comment!

 

Is rather sad that someone with only Embroidery oriented pins had to see these pictures on Pinterest today.



 



Prior to today, I only came across  pictures of embroidery, crochet , fashion etc according to my Crafts interests, but these pictures today are just a sad reminder that the internet is a reminder that whatever is happening at the border won't look good for Native Latin-Americans seeking refuge in the US unless the authorities address the poverty and hurricanes pushing people further to the American border.

It is not like these people had no gold , had no Science, had no community, to my knowledge even without bags or plastic, Native Latin-American women will carry fresh bleeding meat to local markets in an attempt to make money, also they are very resourceful, perfectionist crafters and embroiderers who make all their clothes by hand if they have to and comes out perfectly.

The Native Latin Americans gave their blood and soul to their societies and communities throughout history, yet the Spaniard Catholic missionaries and military men stopped at nothing to massacre them for gold, cocoa and coffee beans.

Is not like these people are not intelligent , family oriented, community oriented, clean and caring. They are and can be all that and should be seen as a bonus to America.

The US in the past recognised this potential, this vein for hard work and general happiness and made Spanish language a second language, visible in maps, notice boards etc.

Is regrettable that gangs took over these massive exodus from Latin America into the US because the reality is that Latin Native American women won't be selling drugs on the street or making babies for different men two in two years, they are either doing crafts and embroideries while looking after their children  or working out of the home.

You won't see Native Latin - American women smoking weed, they will be occupied, even if mending a sock, is just their nature, is just their fibre, pretty much like Irish women, so I do not understand the hostility towards the border crisis if we exclude the gangs taking over this migration route. 

There are many illegals in America from Africa, Asia, Haiti and the Caribbean, working public service jobs, yet nobody is checking their status or promoting a media campaign against them.

Native Latin Americans don't have children brothels in their country, India has institutionalised Children brothels, yet all we see in the extreme right media is how Native Latin Americans like Hondurans, Colombian minorities etc, are flooding the borders with children for sale. 

Children of hungry, starving people who had no chance but to send their kids, or even kids whose parents died in hurricanes, are making their way to the border - is not like they are entering with a fake passport and a kilo of cocaine .

I just find the Media campaign against these Native Latin-American Children a complete American horror movie that is closing in the children and putting pressure on local border authorities to release the children without any support. 


The problem with horror stories is while in tv screens you will only have a few nightmares. in real life evil, the nightmare will always get worst for those who are suffering a living hell and for those who are watching from afar without making sense of where is the reset button in the tv remote.

Ariane Brito





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