*Leslie, C. A. (2007). Needlework Through History: An Encyclopaedia. United States: Greenwood Press.

 

I found the passages below most relevant as a quick refresher for chronological reference to the introduction of primitive forms of crochet in Britain , so I decided to share with my readers.

in page 50

in page 52

in page 53

 The book is available online via Google books.

Ariane

* 1904: CARTWRIGHT'S LADY'S COMPANION , R.S. CARTWRIGHT PUBLISHERS (LONDON, 1904 ): Issue 619

 

1904: CARTWRIGHT'S LADY'S COMPANION, R.S. CARTWRIGHT PUBLISHERS (LONDON, 1904): Issue 619

 

Cartwright's Lady Companion was a magazine published specifically and only for women and young ladies. 

 

 

The weekly magazine issue I am sharing advertisement content today was published on the 15th of October 1904. The publisher of the magazine was R.S. Cartwright, based at Johnson's Court, Fleet Street, London, England.

 

Once of the few existing Cartwright's Lady's Companion issues can be accessed free of charge via,

 

1. Australia Museums of Applied Arts and Sciences

 

Below, I quickly review issue 619 which I own, and I will be donating to a Museum or Archive in a few years’ time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see from the picture above this magazine issue costed one penny (1d.) and included a free pattern. The contents were as per box on top right of photo,

*Fiction stories (one COMPLETE STORY '"The Little Brown Bird" and one NEW SERIAL STORY " Can a Man be true?")

*GRATIS PATTERN Lady’s Nightdress

* Fancy work - Work on Algerian Canvas

 * Cookery - Cheesecakes in Variety.

Etiquette- Ideas for Parties.

* Home Gardening - Daffodils and Narcissus

*Acrostics 

*The Latest Fashions.

* Children's Corner.

*Editorial Chat.

* Photograph Delineations.

*Answers to Correspondents &c., &c.

 

 

 

Next, I present you with the advertisements,

 

 

Above: From left to right and from top to bottom: Advert for THE BRADFORD MANUFATURING Co. Ltd., Depot N. Bradford, Advert for EDMONDSON'S WAREHOUSE, Ltd. Country Department, Leeds, Advert for BEECHAM'S PILLS  , Advert for ROBINSON & CLEAVER, Ltd. Belfast, 156-176, Regent Street, London, W.   Manufacturers to His Majesty the KING, and H.R.H. the PRINCE OF WALES and Advert for RED, WHITE & BLUE COFFEE (“In making use LESS QUANTITY, it being so much stronger than ordinary COFFEE").

 

 

 

Above:          LEACH'S FANCY BALL COSTUMES OFFERS:

COLUMN A :  NEW EDITION PRICE 6d. EACH : NO. I FOR LADIES AND YOUNG LADIES NO.2 FOR GIRLS AND BOYS : CONTAINS OVER 80 DESIGNS OF HISTORICAL AND PICTURESQUE CHARACTERS FOR FANCY BALLS, WITH CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT AND MAKING QUANTITY OF MATERIAL REQUIRED . CHEAP PAPER PATTERNS OF EVERY COSTUME. BY POST SEVEN STAMPS

COLUMN B: PRICE 2d.  HOW TO DANCE BY AN M.O.: GIVING THE STEPS AND FIGURES OF ALL THE NEW VALSES AND SET DANCES. HINTS ON TOILET AND THE BALL ROOM, &c., BY POST, IN ENVELOPE, 3d. ALSO A SMALL POCKET EDITION NEATLY BOUND IN CLOTH, PRICE 6d.: POST FREE, IN ENVELOPE, 7d. OF ALL NEWSVENDORS"

R.S. CARTWRIGHT, 8&9, JOHNSON'S COURT, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.C. "

 

 

NOTE: The author used ' of all vendors'.

 

 

 

Above: From top to bottom and from left to right: Advert for EDWARDS' DESICATTED SOUP - Slogan “This is the penny packet, dear”.

 

Advert for LEATHLEY’S WYLWYRWELL, Dep. 62, Dress Warehouse, Armley Leeds.

 

Advert for BAGLEY & WRIGHTS " BRIGHTEYE" - Slogan "The most popular thread for Embroidery, Crochet and Knitting. Lustrous like silk. Brilliant Colours and White. Sold by all Fancy Drapes and Berlin Wool Repositories".

 

Advert for JOHNSON BROTHERS Ltd. Dept. 1, Bottle Dye Wks., Liverpool. Slogan " DYEING - WHY NOT SAVE EXPENSE?"

 

Advert for WILLIAMSON'S DURABLE DRESS STUFFS, Christopher Williamson, Desk A, 91, Edgware Road, London, W. Slogan " DURABLE DRESS STUFFS, NEW & STYLISH EFFECTS - UNRIVALED VALUE".

 

Advert for LEACHE'S HOUSEHOLD ACCOUNT & COOKERY BOOK, Priced 2d.  (Same address as publisher of magazine issue reviewed in this article)

 

Advert for LEACHE'S HOME LAUNDRY BOOK, Priced 2d.  (Same address as publisher of magazine issue reviewed in this article)

 

Advert for NOTTINGHAM LACE CURTAINS, WHOLESALE MANUFACTURING Co., Dept. 39, NOTTINGHAM.

 

Advert for ICILMA FLUOR CREAM, ICILMA Co. Ltd. (Dept.27), 142 Gray's Inn Road, London, W.C. . Slogan " Beauty".

 

Advert for Dr Mackenzie’s Arsenical Soap, " Of all Chemists and stores or S. Harvey & Co. Ltd. (Dept. 27), 142, Gray's End Road, London, W.C. 

 

 

Note: For chemicals and creams such as Icilma Cream I recommend you making use of the British Science Museum online collection which can be accessed here https://collection.sciencemuseumgroup.org.uk/search?q=ICLIMA%20FLUOR%20CREAM

 

 

 

Above: From top to bottom and from left to right:  JOHN NOBLE SUPPLIER OF COATS, SKIRTS, FABRICS AND FREE PATTERNS, John Noble Ltd. 21 Brook St. Mills, Manchester. Slogan " YOUR NEXT COSTUME OR COAT". 

 

Advert for ERASMIC SOAP, THE ERASMIC Co. Ltd. (Dept. 5), WARRINGTON.

 

Advert for PETROL HAHN FOR THE HAIR, 24 Coronation House, Lloyds Avenue, London E.C. Slogan " Beautiful Hair by using Petrol Hahn".

 

Advert for FER BRAVAIS (Bravais Iron), FER BRAVAIS, No. 20 Coronation House, Lloyds Avenue, London, E.C. Slogan " The best-known remedy for Blood weakness".

 

Advert for FRAME-FOOD, Frame Food Co. Ltd, Battersea, London, S.W. Slogan " Nourish and Flourish! FRAME FOOD (FOR BUILDING UP THE FRAME) - PUT IT TO THE TEST".

 

Advert for LINENS, LINENS, S. PEACH & SONS, Curtain Manufacturer, Box 173, NOTTINGHAM.

Advert for DAINTY BLOUSES CREPE ORIENT, ROBERTS Drapery Warehouse (Dept. 9), THAME. Slogan " FASCINATING NOVELTY PATTERNS FREE”.

 

Advert for 3003, "ANTICAPILLA" (Registered). Mr. R. H. THOMPSON Dept. G. 149, Stran, London, W.C. Wholesale - Barclay's. Slogan " A CURE REGISTERED BY GOVERNMENT! SUPERFLUOS HAIR!"

 

Advert for REAL HAIR TAILS AND FRINGES 2/6 EACH, Mrs. C.A. Drew, Practical Wig Maker, Transformations, &c., 394, Essex Road, and 24, Midway Grove, Islington. Slogan " ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE (POST FREE) " 

 

Advert for LEACH'S ART OF DRESSMAKING. No. 23 BODICE AND BLOUSE NUMBER, by R.S. Cartwright, Address as per Magazine address. Slogan " With Gratis Pattern of the Newest Blouse".

 

 

Advert: Armour's Extract of Beef.

 

 

 

 

Above Advert for Home Life Magazine, October 1904

 

 

Above Advert for Kaputine over the counter drug. Slogan " Cures in Ten Minutes".

 

Above: Several adverts for cleaning products and for Lewis's Velvet fabric stockist and supplier based in Manchester.

 

Above advert for iron-based drug available over the counter. Phosferine recommended by the 1904 Wrestling World Champion

 

Next a few adverts without annotations as product, company name and business address visible from pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Above: Separate Leaflet with Whiteheads York Tailor made Outfits, Telegraphic address " Modish, York". Slogan: Latest Novelties at Popular Prices "

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For archival research on magazine, please note that the magazine evolved into Leaches Lady's Companion (many issues published during World War I) and finally as Lady's Companion.

 

Ariane Brito

London, 19^th July 2020

 

 

* THE LADY'S WORLD EMBROIDERY BOOK NO.3 , LONDON, 1886

This year I will be showing some of my books and magazines that date as early as from 1843.

I start with a magazine created in 1886 , THE LADY'S WORLD  .

This magazine was later renamed as THE WOMAN'S WORLD and hosted famous editors like the poet Oscar Wilde. 

Before we review this first item I would like to state that Oscar Wilde was not only one of the best poets in the History of Literature but he also was an intellectual who was violently arrested,sentenced to incarceration and publicly humiliated for his sexual orientation - at the time , private as it was,. illegal. Other fellow poets who were supposedly lynched because of his sexual orientation was Garcia Lorca.

Men like Oscar Wilde and Garcia Lorca , though non-straight never oppressed women, au contraire Oscar Wilde worked as editor of a magazine that voiced women in all their grace and glory. Me as blogger and my blog features many book reviews by men and as fully inclusive of all designers, I am also fully inclusive and respectful of people who died because of how God made them. So RIP Oscar Wilde. Now moving on...

The issues I own are all prior to Oscar Wilde joining the magazine. 

 If you wish to follow my blog posts reviews for these items ( which you can also find in places like the Met Museum) you can guide yourself by the titles that have * before the title. 

Today I start with one of a few of my unique items, a magazine dating back to 1886 THE LADY'S WORLD  BOOK No. 3.

Here are some pictures of my Issue 3 . Please scroll down to continue my review

The pictures rotated according to their own mood!My apologies but let's move on.

As a crafter I can tell you that though this magazine is way pre First World War, the only difference between crafters at the time and crafters today, like myself when I can, is that the fashion sense changed. My Facebooker crafters from Hungary, Russia, Brazil etc still do all these craft bases for clothes and garments. 

Would these women back to 1886 shy away from embroidery sewing machines? Possibly not, due to automation in consequence of higher demand  - remember that as per this magazine there were already several shops advertising and supplying many family households with ready-made embroidery and lace garments , bedding and lining.

What about crochet and knitting? The same applies as above: I would not crochet a CROCHET GOLF COAT WITH BASQUE as per presented on page 17 of the magazine I am reviewing today , but I would crochet other items I already crocheted for myself, as  a two metres blanket for my sofa. 

What about time spent and rentability? Due to sight loss concerns I am certain most crafters at the time like the one's of today would be aware of the damages causes to the sight by executing needlepoint during late night. But as then as today , we crafters have access to lenses amplifiers. Furthermore, women had mostly the weight of housework but at the time there were already househelpers and today we have machines and couples sharing housework tasks.

The common element I notice is that is still enjoyable to do our own items at our own time and that in itself is priceless and intemporal!

Hope you enjoyed my review and no need to remind me that I must hand my books to museums as obviously a great slice of my books are no longer available and would be more useful digitalised. Separation is painful but will take place - eventually :)

Until next time ,

Best wishes,

Ariane